A cruel irony of summer is that it is a season when beer consumption is perhaps at its highest, and yet the options become less interesting. Light lagers have never really appealed to me. Most are better for drowning slugs than drinking. And really, how many more wheat beers do we need? I like them every now and then, but there are so many on shelves it’s a wonder there’s enough grain leftover to keep the bread aisle stocked. There is no perfect beer for summer, but if I had to choose one, it would be light-bodied, clean, crisp, slightly fruity and served in a …