Food / Dining

Classic Mulligatawny soup, a recipe featured in "The Soupbox Cookbook" by Jamie Taerbaum and Dru Melton. (Quarto Publishing)

Strategies for the Soup Pot: Famed Eatery Sparks Love of Mulligatawny

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

The first time I had mulligatawny soup was at Herren’s Restaurant, an Atlanta landmark for more than 53 years, where I occasionally had lunch with my father. Herren’s, which was the place to be seen in the city, particularly if you were a mover and shaker, was owned and operated by Ed Negri, a civic minded restaurateur who was at the forefront of the city’s integration, and who led the fight to save the magnificent Fox Theater and other historically significant buildings. Negri opened his restaurant to blacks in 1963, the first downtown establishment to do so, and weathered a severe drop in business, picketing …

It’s So Easy to Make Your Own Concentrated Soup Base

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

We all love shortcuts to a good soup — and by “good,” I mostly mean one that has well-developed flavor, the kind that can sometimes take a little time. That’s why we buy bouillon cubes, why we make our own stocks and broths and freeze them, why we sock soup away in the …

Finding Links Between Flavor and Dirt

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

“Let’s go dig a hole!” Ernest “Bubba” Beasley grabbed an auger and led the way along the vine rows. We were at Pollak Vineyards in Greenwood, Va., west of Charlottesville, on a sweltering summer day last July. Beasley, a geologist, and Lucie Morton, a viticulturist, wanted to show me their research on the relationship of vineyard soils to wine quality. And that meant …

Americans Are Falling Out of Love With One of Their Favorite Fruits

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Washington — I was looking through USDA data, as I do from time to time, mindlessly scrolling through numbers and names of foods, when a column in a spreadsheet gave me pause. I had opened the government agency’s most recent estimates of fruit consumption and realized that grapefruits, …

New Book Offers Peek Into H ow He Cooks at Home

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Jacques Pepin may be turning 80 in December, but he’s not sounding like a man about to pack up his chef’s knives and walk away from the stove or, perhaps, the camera. “There’s always something new. Life continues,” …

Pepin’s Legend Grows

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

In the pantheon of food, there are certain legendary pairings. Salt and pepper. Mac and cheese. Gin and tonic. Julia and Jacques. As in Julia Child and Jacques Pepin, two of the most prominent and charismatic culinary figures …

Taming the Wild Apple: Barnard’s Fable Farm Cultivates a Cidery

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

In the clinging heat of a recent August afternoon, the three partners in Barnard’s Fable Farm were moving quickly, grinding apples and pressing them into juice that flowed into white five-gallon buckets. It was a messy scene: Spilled …

Growers Still Search to Find the Perfect Tomato

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

It’s tomato time, and as I watch the big pot of red puree simmering on the stove for canning, I’m touching base with fellow tomato fans about their favorite varieties, both new and old. My friend Cheryl Long, …

Study: Scorned Screw Caps Can Protect Flavor of Wines

Sunday, September 13, 2015

A decade ago, many wineries started using screw caps as closures on wine bottles. They were rebelling against a spate of poor-quality corks that ruined wine. A “corked” wine has been spoiled by a chemical that taints the cork during manufacture; its effects can range from a subtle …

Food Notes: Simon Pearce Restaurant Builds a New Bar

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

The Simon Pearce Restaurant in Quechee has a new bar featuring a small-plate menu, craft beers, cocktails and an expanded wine list, General Manager Jerod Rockwell said this week. Previously, the restaurant had a small bar in the entry to the dining room that wasn’t inviting for customers …

For a Healthy New Year

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Carrot tzimmes, a sweet fruit and vegetable stew, is a dish Carol Ungar’s mother always made for Rosh Hashana. The golden carrot coins signaled prosperity, recalls the cookbook author, and the sweetness a hope for the new year. …

Raise Your Glass: Forgotten Suggestion Leads to a Fine Chardonnay

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

McWilliam’s Hanw ood Estates Southeastern Australia Chardonnay 2012, $11.99 Back in the beginning of the summer, someone suggested that I check out a “very nice” petite sirah and because I favor whites and roses during the hotter months, …

A Bit of Seaside By the Roadside

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

In 2009, chef Brad Pirkey packed up his Volkswagen bus and his dog Boston and headed out on a great American road trip, traveling the country’s perimeter, from East Coast to Gulf Coast to West Coast, for a …