Food / Dining

Pizza Macellaio, a recipe from a recent cookbook, mixes pepperoni, sausage, thinly sliced red onion and mozzarella.

Homemade Pies: Time to Take Pizza Into Your Own Hands

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Making pizza at home is not that big of a deal. People do it all the time. I have a friend who makes pizza so often that he uses his bread machine exclusively for pizza dough. He makes a lot and freezes it. A couple of pizza cookbooks that recently landed on my desk got me thinking about making a pizza, something I’ve never done successfully. I’m not sure why I haven’t made pizza enough to perfect it. Perhaps it’s because it’s a generally unhealthy food. It also could be that I came to pizza after I had already developed my dietary habits. Pizza has …

Brown Bread Grows Scarce, Even Here in New England

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

For as long as I can remember, my favorite bread, the bread that I still crave above all breads, has come in a can. It’s called brown bread, or outside of New England, where it is mostly unheard of, Boston brown bread. My grandmother, whose family came from Portland, Maine, a brown-bread holy …

Justin Dain Leads a Busy, Experimental Kitchen at the Hanover Inn

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

When Hanover Inn and Pine restaurant Executive Chef Justin Dain cooks a lamb tenderloin, he keeps messing with it. “Meat, especially muscle meat, wants to tighten up, so for the first minute you have to keep moving it around and pulling the sides up, so that it will sear evenly,” Dain said, while …

Cookie Cutter Creativity

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Her Soho loft is like many in New York: a third-floor walkup filled with light, scuffed wooden floors and works in progress. It doesn’t look anything like a bakery; the only hint is the white wall covered with …

After a Century, Russ & Daughters Expands

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

New York — Russ & Daughters has been a New York City institution on the Lower East Side for 100 years, a deli selling what’s known as “appetizing” — traditional foods like bagels and lox that were brought …

Europe Suffers Olive Oil Disaster

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

If you’re a fan of great olive oil — particularly of oils from Tuscany and Umbria — you’d better get ready to dip into your wallet. That stuff’s going to get expensive. As a result of what the Italian newspaper La Repubblica is calling “The Black Year of …

Cost of Thanksgiving Rises, But Not by Too Much

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Giving thanks will be a little costlier this year, but — and here’s something you can be truly thankful for — it probably won’t empty your wallet. The price for putting Thanksgiving dinner on the table for 10 …

A Memorable Pizza From a Nashua Childhood

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Nashua, n.h. — It’s one of those haunting food memories I’ve tried, foolishly, to escape for nearly 25 years. And it’s ruined me for any facsimile since. I’m speaking of the pizza joint — for in the days …

Cookbooks Are Seeing Growth

Friday, November 21, 2014

A few years ago, Ken Hagemann was drawn to what he thought was the future of cookbooks. Lured by the ease and searchability promised by e-books and apps, he purged most of his old school volumes. But instead of a digital culinary epiphany, he found only disappointment. “You …

Skilled Hands: Simon Pearce Chef Says Success Is a Team Effort 

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Quechee — When Simon Pearce Restaurant Executive Chef Brian Gazda arrived at work at 9 on a recent morning to head up the lunch crew, the mirepoix was ready to be cooked. Raw onions, carrots and celery had …

Raise Your Glass: Inexpensive Chardonnay That Passes Muster

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Bridlewood Chardonnay Monterey County, Calif. 2012, $13.99 OK, so this wine is over the $10 ceiling of this column, but there’s a reason. Bridlewood is a dry, somewhat complex California Chardonnay, and that hasn’t been easy to find …

Family Celebrates 25 Years of Spirited Cook-Offs

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Horntown, Va. — Andrea Sullivan strode into the kitchen with an air of confidence — and with a blue sticky note affixed to her clear poncho. The rain gear was a precaution for the showers forecast over an …

Fresh Beets: They’re Fine Pickled, but Eat Them Now for The Best Flavor

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Shortly after my father’s family moved south from Ohio to Atlanta, a woman who was helping out with the cooking was overheard telling a friend over the back fence about the oddities of the northerner’s culinary habits. “They …