Food / Dining

Raise Your Glass: Wine Giant Makes a Nice Little Cab

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Mendoza, Argentina, $10.99 I appreciate the effort that goes into making a high-quality wine, and there are a number of great small winemakers across the world who are producing excellent wines, carefully attending to the vines, hand-picking the grapes and fermenting the juice to perfection, often at affordable prices. Those small batch wines can be tricky to find, but they are out there on the U.S. market, many in the $10 range, prices held down by the strength of the dollar abroad or the weakness of originating country’s economy. Most wine sellers have at least one or two to …

Winter Vegetables: There’s Plenty of Produce That’s In Season

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Everybody assumes that local produce isn’t available come winter, and those people cannot be more wrong, says Michael Anthony, author of the cookbook V Is for Vegetables (Little, Brown and Co.; October 2015; $40) and executive chef of the restaurants Gramercy Tavern and Untitled in New York City. “It’s charming to eat in …

Strategies for the Soup Pot: Famed Eatery Sparks Love of Mulligatawny

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

The first time I had mulligatawny soup was at Herren’s Restaurant, an Atlanta landmark for more than 53 years, where I occasionally had lunch with my father. Herren’s, which was the place to be seen in the city, particularly if you were a mover and shaker, was owned and operated by Ed Negri, …

Busy Nights Call for Fast Food, But No Drive-Thru Is N eeded

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

School, kids, work... It’s always something. Whatever the culprit, we are all busy. And on those crazy-busy days, dinner can sneak up on me, and suddenly I find my whole family ravenous. And the busier and more hectic …

Paul Prudhomme Championed Local Food Before It Was Cool

Saturday, October 10, 2015

New Orleans — At K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen during the early 1980s, chef and owner Paul Prudhomme would drive to his hometown near Opelousas in his pickup truck and come back loaded down with supplies reflecting his native Cajun …

Americans Are Falling Out of Love With One of Their Favorite Fruits

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Washington — I was looking through USDA data, as I do from time to time, mindlessly scrolling through numbers and names of foods, when a column in a spreadsheet gave me pause. I had opened the government agency’s most recent estimates of fruit consumption and realized that grapefruits, …

New Book Offers Peek Into H ow He Cooks at Home

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Jacques Pepin may be turning 80 in December, but he’s not sounding like a man about to pack up his chef’s knives and walk away from the stove or, perhaps, the camera. “There’s always something new. Life continues,” …

Pepin’s Legend Grows

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

In the pantheon of food, there are certain legendary pairings. Salt and pepper. Mac and cheese. Gin and tonic. Julia and Jacques. As in Julia Child and Jacques Pepin, two of the most prominent and charismatic culinary figures …

Taming the Wild Apple: Barnard’s Fable Farm Cultivates a Cidery

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

In the clinging heat of a recent August afternoon, the three partners in Barnard’s Fable Farm were moving quickly, grinding apples and pressing them into juice that flowed into white five-gallon buckets. It was a messy scene: Spilled …

Growers Still Search to Find the Perfect Tomato

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

It’s tomato time, and as I watch the big pot of red puree simmering on the stove for canning, I’m touching base with fellow tomato fans about their favorite varieties, both new and old. My friend Cheryl Long, …

Study: Scorned Screw Caps Can Protect Flavor of Wines

Sunday, September 13, 2015

A decade ago, many wineries started using screw caps as closures on wine bottles. They were rebelling against a spate of poor-quality corks that ruined wine. A “corked” wine has been spoiled by a chemical that taints the cork during manufacture; its effects can range from a subtle …

Food Notes: Simon Pearce Restaurant Builds a New Bar

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

The Simon Pearce Restaurant in Quechee has a new bar featuring a small-plate menu, craft beers, cocktails and an expanded wine list, General Manager Jerod Rockwell said this week. Previously, the restaurant had a small bar in the entry to the dining room that wasn’t inviting for customers …

For a Healthy New Year

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Carrot tzimmes, a sweet fruit and vegetable stew, is a dish Carol Ungar’s mother always made for Rosh Hashana. The golden carrot coins signaled prosperity, recalls the cookbook author, and the sweetness a hope for the new year. …