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Food / Dining

A color plate of the Bethel apple from the 1905 book "The Apples of New York: Volume 1" by S.A. Beach.

In Bethel, Residents Treasure an Antique Apple Variety

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Not every small town can claim to have its own apple, but Bethel is one of them. And if the good people of Bethel have their way, the Bethel apple, which dates back to the late 1700s, will be one of the town’s tourist attractions sooner rather than later. While consumers today can count on perhaps 10 varieties of apple being reliably available in supermarkets, a century ago hundreds, even thousands, of varieties were routinely grown throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including the Bethel apple. Like wines, their flavor, color and longevity depended on the terrain and climate in which they grew. The Apples of New …

A Golden Age for Apples

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Apples are a hardy, long-lived, diverse fruit, and since the Industrial Revolution, when countless New England farms emptied out, an equally countless number of apple varieties have been waiting to be rediscovered. Over the past few decades, interest in apples has been rekindled in the region and old varieties — Hubbardston Nonesuch, Westfield-Seek-No-Further, …

To Chill or Not to Chill?

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

For many years I’ve been lecturing anyone who would listen that we shouldn’t put tomatoes in the refrigerator. Was I wrong? A very good post on the Serious Eats website this week seems to suggest so. In it, Daniel Gritzer writes persuasively about an experiment he ran comparing the flavor of very ripe …

Best Steaks for Grilling

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

The weather’s cooperating, the coals are lit and you’ve got your mind on a juicy steak with perfect grill marks. But what type of steak should you buy? Well, rib-eye remains the favorite across the United States, the …

Tips on Buying And Cooking Steak

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

∎ Speak up. Tell the meat cutter or meat counter person what you’re looking for. How many people are you feeding? Do you want individual steaks or a big Flintstones-size slab to share? Does he or she have any tips on cooking it? ∎ Read the label carefully. …

FDA Readies New Salt Rules

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Washington — Food companies and restaurants could soon face government pressure to make their foods less salty — a long-awaited federal effort to try to prevent thousands of deaths each year from heart disease and stroke. The Food …

Cooking by Ear: Kitchen Sounds Communicate the Nuances

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

You expect a kitchen to be noisy. The tap-tap-tap of a knife mincing mounds of fresh herbs. The rhythmic beat of a wooden spoon mixing a batter. Fries sputtering in oil. Beyond such obvious noises, there are many …

Understanding Portion Sizes

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

In 2011, with much fanfare, the USDA unveiled MyPlate, the redesigned successor to MyPyramid, the so-called food pyramid that assigned nutritional value to the different food groups. Like MyPyramid, MyPlate assigns different values to the different food groups, …

Riesling Rises in the U.S.

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Riesling, more widely planted than Chardonnay in California just 50 years ago, is on the rise again. And Riesling’s most ardent supporter is British wine writer Stuart Pigott, whose blog chronicles his adventures on what he likes to call Planet Riesling, along with sharp observations and pungent opinions. …

Deborah Madison Rewrites Her Classic ‘Vegetarian Cooking’

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

When Deborah Madison wrote Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, who knew that the title would end up being so close to prophetic? The book has more than 400,000 copies in print, which isn’t literally everyone, of course. But when …

Facing a Cheese Challenge, Major Grocery Chain Caves

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

I can’t believe this is goat cheese. The Wegmans 1916 Aged Goat Cheese is smooth, silky, a little grassy but not at all punctuated by the sharp tang that turns off so many people from other goat’s milk …

Adventures in Grilling

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Some of us grill throughout the year, happily tending to the flames and the food as flakes of snow fall from the night sky and sizzle on the grate. For people who are slightly more sane, though, the …

Seeking the Real Pennsylvania Dutch Cookery

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Pennsylvania Dutch cooking does not seem to capture the food lover’s imagination the way barbecue, Southern, Cajun/Creole, Pacific Northwest or other American cooking styles do. Ask most people what they know of it, and they are likely to …