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Food / Dining

Raise Your Glass: Don’t Let the Cute Labels Fool You

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Chateau La Paws Red Blend, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, California, $12.99 I’m generally turned off by cute wine labels. If I come across a bottle with say, a smiling, cartoon version of Ebenezer Scrooge and a name that borders on the scatological, I immediately assume the taste must resemble the appellation, and a clever label is required to sell a bad wine. Some might call me snobbish for my label avoidance …

Homemade Condiments

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Summer means grilling. Grilling means hot dogs and hamburgers. Hot dogs and hamburgers mean mustard and ketchup and maybe mayonnaise. You can always go to the store and buy the stuff that comes in a plastic jar. That way, you get to top your lovingly crafted hamburgers and hot dogs with plastic-jar stuff. …

Eat Your Weedies: A Yard’s Bounty Can Fill a Salad Bowl

Monday, May 25, 2015

In the early 1960s, Euell Gibbons wrote Stalking the Wild Asparagus and introduced millions of North Americans to the virtues of harvesting wild foods. Since that time, gathering wild edibles has become increasingly popular, and in our region, woods-grown delicacies such as ramps and fiddlehead ferns appear in grocery stores each spring. Yet …

Cuts Likely To Shutter Vt. Law Library

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Montpelier — A nearly $500,000 cut to the Vermont Department of Libraries will likely result in the closure of the state law library. Earlier this week, the House Appropriations Committee decided to go with the governor’s recommendation to …

Bill Encourages Raw Milk Sales

Friday, March 20, 2015

Montpelier — State Rep. Teo Zagar, D-Barnard, says he prefers raw, unpasteurized milk, but will stop at his general store for the conventional stuff when the dirt road to his favorite farm is deep in snow or spring mud. “There’s a little more terroir,” Zagar said of the …

Raise Your Glass: Exploring Zinfandel’s History and Dark Flavors

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Terra d’Oro Zinfandel Amador County, Calif., $9.99 to $15.99 In the early 1970s in Atlanta, one could be considered knowledgable about wine if you knew that the rose from Lancers and Mateus came from Portugal. And there were …

The Uncanny Canned Artichoke

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Way back in the last century, I spent a shift in the kitchen of a snooty French restaurant for a magazine story and learned that even the haughtiest chefs wield a can opener like a Wusthof. When an …

Overhauling the Food System

Sunday, March 15, 2015

In San Francisco’s South of Market area, where tech start-ups sprout like edible weeds, three former fine-dining chefs with a molecular gastronomy bent are peering intently into a frying pan. Alumni of Chicago’s avant-garde Moto restaurant, the trio …

Tough Job Finds Few Takers

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Des Moines, Iowa — Kent Weise loves his work, but after 38 years slaughtering cattle, lugging carcasses that can weigh more than 1,000 pounds and slowly, methodically slicing cuts of meat, he understands why few people want to …

Improvising Your Way to a Tasty French Shepherd’s Pie

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

I’m the kind of cook who goes to the market with a list and returns with everything but what was on it. It takes only one beautiful squash, apple or bunch of herbs to make me change my …

Mozzarella In 40 Minutes

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Pizza night in our house is full-on DIY. Homemade pizza dough and sauce from summer’s canned tomatoes, sure; that’s de rigeur. But homemade mozzarella? Oh, yes. Quite simply, it’s a revelation. Mozzarella is entry-level cheesemaking: Satisfying, quick, inexpensive …

Low and Slow: Braising Transforms the Flavor of Winter Vegetables

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Even the most dedicated herbivore can get discouraged by the monotony of root vegetables, potatoes, onions, brassicas and such that crowd our midwinter produce sections. Fortunately, there’s a surefire remedy for the winter vegetable blues: braising. Yes, I …

Coke Bets on Super Milk

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

New York — Coke is coming out with premium milk that has more protein and less sugar than regular. And it’s betting people will pay twice as much for it. The national rollout of Fairlife over the next …