Food / Dining

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, French epicure and food writer, died in 1826, shortly after publishing his most famous work, "The Physiology of Taste." (Sierra Nicole Rhoden/Chicago Tribune/TNS)

Brillat-Savarin’s Gastronomic Gem Resonates 200 Years Later

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin was a French judge and politician who managed to survive revolution, the Napoleonic wars and the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy, all the while exercising a considerable and nuanced appreciation for the pleasures of the table. He died at 70 in Paris in February 1826, shortly after publication of the book that would make him an immortal in the food world: The Physiology of Taste or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy. Immediately popular then and considered a classic now, the book is an influential and oft-quoted source for all things culinary, and more. “He is one of the most important figures in history, …

Super Bowl Spuds: Pub Inspiration for ‘Smashed’ and ‘Loaded’ Potatoes

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Baked, fried or mashed, the potato remains America’s favorite vegetable. We inhale, on average, more than 50 pounds of spuds annually, no doubt much of it in darkened cars parked in back alleys, far away from dietitians, spouses or even government nags who clearly don’t cave to human weakness when confronted with a …

Windsor Farmers Market Surveys Shoppers, Vendors

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Windsor — Organizers of the Windsor Farmers Market are asking would be and actual shoppers and vendors to take an online survey designed to improve the market. For the past few years, the outdoor market has been held on Sundays at about the same time. The survey asks whether changing the day or time, or other aspects of the market, would appeal to …

Brisket, Latkes And Tzimmes For Hanukkah

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

It’s all a matter of cause and effect. The cause is that in 164 BC, a group of Jews led by Judah Maccabee captured the former Jewish Temple in Jerusalem, which had been turned into a pagan shrine …

Huge Truffle Sells High

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

New York — A record-setting 4.16-pound white truffle has sold for $61,250 at a New York City auction. Sotheby’s says the fungus was sold Saturday to a food and wine lover from Taiwan bidding by phone. The truffle …

Cookie Cutter Creativity

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Her Soho loft is like many in New York: a third-floor walkup filled with light, scuffed wooden floors and works in progress. It doesn’t look anything like a bakery; the only hint is the white wall covered with …

After a Century, Russ & Daughters Expands

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

New York — Russ & Daughters has been a New York City institution on the Lower East Side for 100 years, a deli selling what’s known as “appetizing” — traditional foods like bagels and lox that were brought …

Europe Suffers Olive Oil Disaster

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

If you’re a fan of great olive oil — particularly of oils from Tuscany and Umbria — you’d better get ready to dip into your wallet. That stuff’s going to get expensive. As a result of what the Italian newspaper La Repubblica is calling “The Black Year of …

Cost of Thanksgiving Rises, But Not by Too Much

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Giving thanks will be a little costlier this year, but — and here’s something you can be truly thankful for — it probably won’t empty your wallet. The price for putting Thanksgiving dinner on the table for 10 …

A Memorable Pizza From a Nashua Childhood

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Nashua, n.h. — It’s one of those haunting food memories I’ve tried, foolishly, to escape for nearly 25 years. And it’s ruined me for any facsimile since. I’m speaking of the pizza joint — for in the days …

Cookbooks Are Seeing Growth

Friday, November 21, 2014

A few years ago, Ken Hagemann was drawn to what he thought was the future of cookbooks. Lured by the ease and searchability promised by e-books and apps, he purged most of his old school volumes. But instead of a digital culinary epiphany, he found only disappointment. “You …

Skilled Hands: Simon Pearce Chef Says Success Is a Team Effort 

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Quechee — When Simon Pearce Restaurant Executive Chef Brian Gazda arrived at work at 9 on a recent morning to head up the lunch crew, the mirepoix was ready to be cooked. Raw onions, carrots and celery had …

Raise Your Glass: Inexpensive Chardonnay That Passes Muster

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Bridlewood Chardonnay Monterey County, Calif. 2012, $13.99 OK, so this wine is over the $10 ceiling of this column, but there’s a reason. Bridlewood is a dry, somewhat complex California Chardonnay, and that hasn’t been easy to find …