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Food / Dining

A color plate of the Bethel apple from the 1905 book "The Apples of New York: Volume 1" by S.A. Beach.

In Bethel, Residents Treasure an Antique Apple Variety

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Not every small town can claim to have its own apple, but Bethel is one of them. And if the good people of Bethel have their way, the Bethel apple, which dates back to the late 1700s, will be one of the town’s tourist attractions sooner rather than later. While consumers today can count on perhaps 10 varieties of apple being reliably available in supermarkets, a century ago hundreds, even thousands, of varieties were routinely grown throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including the Bethel apple. Like wines, their flavor, color and longevity depended on the terrain and climate in which they grew. The Apples of New …

A Golden Age for Apples

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Apples are a hardy, long-lived, diverse fruit, and since the Industrial Revolution, when countless New England farms emptied out, an equally countless number of apple varieties have been waiting to be rediscovered. Over the past few decades, interest in apples has been rekindled in the region and old varieties — Hubbardston Nonesuch, Westfield-Seek-No-Further, …

To Chill or Not to Chill?

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

For many years I’ve been lecturing anyone who would listen that we shouldn’t put tomatoes in the refrigerator. Was I wrong? A very good post on the Serious Eats website this week seems to suggest so. In it, Daniel Gritzer writes persuasively about an experiment he ran comparing the flavor of very ripe …

Basil Blight Wipes Out Crop at N.H. Farm

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Folks at Dimond Hill Farm in Concord don’t mince words when talk turns to one of their most popular crops. “We sell lots and lots and lots of basil every year,” said Jane Presby, a seventh-generation farmer who …

Look to Old World For the New Wines

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Fancy some furmint? How about a nice glass of grillo? If you’ve never heard of either, chances are you will. Wine lists are getting a makeover as producers all over the world make a play for U.S. palates. …

Mysteries of Homemade Yogurt

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Making yogurt isn’t cooking. Not really. It’s more like conjuring spirits: You create the conditions that summon mysterious creatures, invisible to the naked eye, to do all the real work. In the case of yogurt, the “creatures” are …

You’re Doing It Wrong: Plumcake

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

New York — With all due respect to William Carlos Williams, no one should be eating plums cold from the icebox. Forgive me, but a chilled plum is an inferior plum — like all cold edibles, it will hurt your teeth and numb your tastebuds. Should you find …

More Food Sometimes Adds Up to Less Value

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

The trouble with writing about cheap eats — which I do as the $20 Diner in The Washington Post’s Weekend section — is that few can agree on what constitutes cheap. One person’s weekly helping of lamb biryani, at $16 a plate, is another’s semiannual indulgence. In a …

When Cooking Pizza on the Grill, Medium Heat Yields Maximum Pie

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Grilling pizza is like learning a new computer program. Those who know how to do it always say it’s easy. But it’s easy only if you know how to do it. The good news is that the learning …

Could Common Ground on GMOs Save Our Depleted Oceans?

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Scientists at DuPont have genetically modified a yeast to produce a long-chain omega-3 fatty acid, essential to human health and previously available in meaningful quantity only from marine sources. In other words, they can create in the lab something that, up until now, we’ve had to harvest wild …

Tomato Season: Serve Them Up In a Salad

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

At the peak of ripeness, an in-season tomato is one of the things that makes life worth living. Happily, that season is nigh upon us. And this recipe is my ode to that summer tomato. All kinds of …

Rhode Island Town Declares War on Shave Ice

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Westerly, r.i. — A $3 cup of shave ice is at the center of a dispute between street vendors trying to stay in business in this beach town and town officials who say the vendors cause traffic congestion …

Farm-to-Table Pioneer Chef Turns Skeptic

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

How did a chef who opened a restaurant on a Hudson Valley farm come to write a book questioning the very thesis of the farm-to-table movement? It started with a magazine’s prompt to illustrate the future of food …