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Food / Dining

Classic Mulligatawny soup, a recipe featured in "The Soupbox Cookbook" by Jamie Taerbaum and Dru Melton. (Quarto Publishing)

Strategies for the Soup Pot: Famed Eatery Sparks Love of Mulligatawny

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

The first time I had mulligatawny soup was at Herren’s Restaurant, an Atlanta landmark for more than 53 years, where I occasionally had lunch with my father. Herren’s, which was the place to be seen in the city, particularly if you were a mover and shaker, was owned and operated by Ed Negri, a civic minded restaurateur who was at the forefront of the city’s integration, and who led the fight to save the magnificent Fox Theater and other historically significant buildings. Negri opened his restaurant to blacks in 1963, the first downtown establishment to do so, and weathered a severe drop in business, picketing …

It’s So Easy to Make Your Own Concentrated Soup Base

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

We all love shortcuts to a good soup — and by “good,” I mostly mean one that has well-developed flavor, the kind that can sometimes take a little time. That’s why we buy bouillon cubes, why we make our own stocks and broths and freeze them, why we sock soup away in the …

Finding Links Between Flavor and Dirt

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

“Let’s go dig a hole!” Ernest “Bubba” Beasley grabbed an auger and led the way along the vine rows. We were at Pollak Vineyards in Greenwood, Va., west of Charlottesville, on a sweltering summer day last July. Beasley, a geologist, and Lucie Morton, a viticulturist, wanted to show me their research on the relationship of vineyard soils to wine quality. And that meant …

A Rustic, Warming Winter Tart

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

If you like savory pies and tarts but find the whole crust process intimidating, I’ve got one word for you: galette. In case that doesn’t mean anything, I’ll give you two more: free-form. With a galette, you roll …

Raise Your Glass: A Fine Old Vine Zinfandel at a Great Price

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Bogle Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel, 2013 California, $13.99 During a recent visit to the North Carolina mountains, my wife and I were lucky enough to be part of a small dinner party with friends who make their living …

A Savory Indian Doughnut for Any Meal

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Medhu vadai is a savory Indian doughnut perfect for any time of the day. Although it is typically served for breakfast with steamed rice dumplings (idlies) or as an evening snack with coffee or tea, it also appears …

Number of U.S. Breweries Hits Record

Sunday, January 24, 2016

It was a startling announcement: As of Dec. 1, 2015, the Brewers Association had counted 4,144 breweries in the United States, the most ever operating simultaneously in the history of the country. According to historians, the previous high-water …

Time to Save a Little Sunshine

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Citrus season began this month and continues until March or April, depending on the weather. For the next few weeks, I’ll take the time at the grocery store to poke around in the produce department. I’m looking for …

Genetically Engineered Potato Gets FDA OK

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Boise, Idaho — A potato genetically engineered to resist the pathogen that caused the Irish potato famine is as safe as any other potato on the market, the Food and Drug Administration said. In a letter last week …

Ice Wine Grapes Picked

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Branchport, n.y. — Winter finally came down hard on New York’s Finger Lakes this month with single-digit temperatures at dawn and snow blowing over the rolling vineyards. The wait was over for an ice wine harvest. The sweet wine that has become a specialty for a number of …

Raise Your Glass: A Brother’s Recommendation Yields a Keeper

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

McManis Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2014 California, $11.99 When I was growing up as the youngest of four boys, I didn’t always get the straight scoop from my older brothers. For example, although I was the smallest of …

Salads Amid the Snowstorms: Post-Holiday Meals Cry Out For Vegetables

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Well, that was fun while it lasted. The cakes, the cookies, the candy canes and champagne, they’re all increasingly fleeting memories. Now it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty. Now it’s time for salads. Don’t groan. …

Hawaii Will Stop Growing Sugar

Sunday, January 10, 2016

Honolulu — Hawaii’s last sugar plantation is getting out of the sugar-growing business, signaling the end of an industry that once powered the local economy and lured thousands of immigrants to the islands. Alexander & Baldwin Inc. said last week that it will phase out sugar by the …