Food / Dining

Thomas Chin Dam, owner of AA Lab Eggs and the Ramona Duck Farm, shows off his fertilized Peking Duck eggs at his farm Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 in Ramona, Calif. The duck embryos are boiled alive and eaten in the shell. It's popular with Filipinos, who call it balut, and Vietnamese, who call it hot vit lon. (Allen J. Schaben/Los Angeles Times/TNS)

Vietnamese Immigrant Built an Empire on Duck Eggs

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Los Angeles — The two spots in front of Hot Vit Lon Long An are taken, so Sonny Ha squeezes his SUV into a tight opening at the curb in the middle of LA’s bustling Little Saigon shopping district. The handyman from Cerritos steps into the dimly lighted shop and places his order: Two dozen duck embryos that will be …

Panettone Is a Building Block For Christmas Breakfast

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

‘Tis not the season without panettone. The mile-high domed Italian Christmas bread, studded with raisins and candied orange, light and airy in texture yet richly flavored with eggs and butter, tastes like the holiday. Our mom had it at Christmas always, a reminder of her Italian homeland, though she had to travel far …

Dinner Becomes 2014 Battleground

Sunday, December 21, 2014

Have you picked a side yet? If not, you’d better think fast, because the battle lines are being drawn and they cut right down the dinner table. For if there was any theme to the food world in 2014, it was the prevalence of polarizing issues. Here’s a roundup of some of the …

Brisket, Latkes And Tzimmes For Hanukkah

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

It’s all a matter of cause and effect. The cause is that in 164 BC, a group of Jews led by Judah Maccabee captured the former Jewish Temple in Jerusalem, which had been turned into a pagan shrine …

Huge Truffle Sells High

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

New York — A record-setting 4.16-pound white truffle has sold for $61,250 at a New York City auction. Sotheby’s says the fungus was sold Saturday to a food and wine lover from Taiwan bidding by phone. The truffle …

Cookie Cutter Creativity

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Her Soho loft is like many in New York: a third-floor walkup filled with light, scuffed wooden floors and works in progress. It doesn’t look anything like a bakery; the only hint is the white wall covered with …

After a Century, Russ & Daughters Expands

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

New York — Russ & Daughters has been a New York City institution on the Lower East Side for 100 years, a deli selling what’s known as “appetizing” — traditional foods like bagels and lox that were brought …

Europe Suffers Olive Oil Disaster

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

If you’re a fan of great olive oil — particularly of oils from Tuscany and Umbria — you’d better get ready to dip into your wallet. That stuff’s going to get expensive. As a result of what the Italian newspaper La Repubblica is calling “The Black Year of …

Cost of Thanksgiving Rises, But Not by Too Much

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Giving thanks will be a little costlier this year, but — and here’s something you can be truly thankful for — it probably won’t empty your wallet. The price for putting Thanksgiving dinner on the table for 10 …

A Memorable Pizza From a Nashua Childhood

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Nashua, n.h. — It’s one of those haunting food memories I’ve tried, foolishly, to escape for nearly 25 years. And it’s ruined me for any facsimile since. I’m speaking of the pizza joint — for in the days …

Cookbooks Are Seeing Growth

Friday, November 21, 2014

A few years ago, Ken Hagemann was drawn to what he thought was the future of cookbooks. Lured by the ease and searchability promised by e-books and apps, he purged most of his old school volumes. But instead of a digital culinary epiphany, he found only disappointment. “You …

Skilled Hands: Simon Pearce Chef Says Success Is a Team Effort 

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Quechee — When Simon Pearce Restaurant Executive Chef Brian Gazda arrived at work at 9 on a recent morning to head up the lunch crew, the mirepoix was ready to be cooked. Raw onions, carrots and celery had …

Raise Your Glass: Inexpensive Chardonnay That Passes Muster

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Bridlewood Chardonnay Monterey County, Calif. 2012, $13.99 OK, so this wine is over the $10 ceiling of this column, but there’s a reason. Bridlewood is a dry, somewhat complex California Chardonnay, and that hasn’t been easy to find even under $15. But now, that state’s winemakers seem to …