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Beyond Soup, a Tale of Many Meals

Just to be clear, there is nothing wrong with chicken noodle soup. Or cream of tomato.

I love them both.

But there’s so much more to sip from your spoon on a chilly day — think ginger-carrot soup, Dutch cheese soup or a root-vegetable chowder. And there’s no one better to teach us how to make it than Beatrice Ojakangas of Duluth, Minn.

She does just that in The Soup & Bread Cookbook (Rodale, 308 pages, $23.99), her 29th volume, in which she tackles a subject that may be closer to her core than the Scandinavian baking books for which she is known.

She praises the simplicity of that most basic meal — bread and soup — which can be found in one form or another in kitchens around the world. It’s the meal I most associate with her, one that is thrifty, filling and unfussy — one so seasonal you can use it as a calendar of sorts.

Years ago, as a young reporter, I stepped into the Ojakangas household after a long snowy drive through the fields and towering pines of northeast Minnesota. After I shook off the snowflakes and stomped my boots, she led me into the heart of her home — a warm, fragrant kitchen — where a pot of French onion soup was simmering on a back burner. Talk about comfort food. One sip of that and I felt at ease. Interviewing the foremost authority on all things Scandinavian? No problem when a pot of soup was at hand.

That nourishing bowl has a way of transforming us. Can you imagine eating soup while being angry, and then staying that way after your last spoonful? Of course not. You have to slow down to eat soup. You have to be mindful of your actions or you may spill the contents as the spoon follows the arc from bowl to mouth. It might as well be the “be and breathe” of dining.

And then there’s bread, whether a hearty loaf, simple biscuit or crunchy breadstick. Whatever the shape or flavor, it is sustenance at its most basic, and as natural a pairing with soup as food is to wine.

Ojakangas has known this since she was a young girl. Her mother told her that, when eating out, she could never go wrong by ordering soup, which would inevitably come with some kind of bread or cracker. That’s good advice for the host, as well: Bread and soup is always a winner.

She has often turned to that combo while planning meals at her church, First Lutheran in Duluth, Minn., where she heads up many food efforts and makes good use of her extensive world travels, whether to prepare borscht and black bread from Petrozavodsk, Russia, or red kidney bean soup with pupusas from El Salvador, or chicken soup and cheese rolls from Colombia, all recipes you’ll find in her new book.

While many cooks reach for the proverbial “crusty” bread to serve with any bowl of soup, Ojakangas takes her menu planning a bit further, pairing individual soups with specific breads or crackers. “It makes it a little more interesting,” she says. “You want the two to match flavor-wise and texture-wise. And they have to be ready at the same time. That’s the upshot of it.”

She makes it easy for the cook by organizing these recipes by season. A spring pea soup calls for a bread that highlights other seasonal ingredients, in this case chive-dill batter bread. Curried chicken wild-rice soup pairs with oatmeal batter bread, cabbage-hamburger soup with honey whole-wheat cranberry-nut bread.

There are familiar soups and breads in her book as well as surprises, though the traditional ones have flavor ratcheted up for today’s taste buds, whether it’s a simple vegetable soup or a butternut squash version.

“I couldn’t resist doing fresh tomato soup. People don’t think they can do it, but it’s easy and cheap. If you can your own tomatoes, you will be able to make it later in the season,” she said.

Then there’s chanterelle soup.

“It’s Finnish and one of my favorites. We pick the mushrooms from our forest. And one of my favorite soups is the mushroom-barley. It’s awfully cheap and simple, just mushrooms, onion and barley.”

Curried Pumpkin Soup

Serves 6.

Note: Lovely when served in a hollowed-out pumpkin shell, especially with mini-pumpkins for individual servings. Pair it with cheese bread (recipe below). From The Soup & Bread Cookbook.

2 tbsp. butter

2 tsp. curry powder

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, shredded

2 c. low-sodium chicken stock

2 c. half-and-half

1 (15-oz.) can unsweetened pumpkin purée

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ground white pepper

¼ c. sour cream

Toasted sunflower seeds

Directions: Heat the butter in a heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add the curry powder, onion and carrot. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and process until smooth.

Return mixture to soup pot and stir in the pumpkin, half-and-half, salt and white pepper. Heat over medium heat to a serving temperature. Scoop into soup bowls or pumpkin shells. Top with sour cream and sunflower seeds.

Peppered Cheese Bread

Makes 2 loaves (24 slices).

Note: Serve with the soup, or use an hors d’oeuvre, topped with hummus or small pieces of meat or cheese. From The Soup & Bread Cookbook, by Beatrice Ojakangas.

3 c. flour, divided

1 pkg. (¼ oz.) or 1 scant tbsp. active dry yeast

1 tbsp. sugar

1 ¼ c. warm water (120 to 130 degrees)

1 3 c. shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

2 tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tbsp. butter, at room temperature

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. hot sauce

¼ tsp. cayenne or black pepper

Cooking spray

Olive or vegetable oil

Directions: In a small bowl, combine 1 cup flour, yeast, sugar and warm water. Stir until blended and set aside until mixture has begun to bubble and rise, about 10 minutes.

In a food processor, combine remaining flour, Cheddar and Parmesan cheese, butter, salt, hot sauce and pepper; pulse just until well blended. Add yeast mixture and process until the dough comes together in a ball and spins around the bowl 25 times; dough will be in a smooth ball. (If mixing by hand, or kneading by hand, knead until the dough is smooth and not sticky. Be careful not to add more than a tablespoon or 2 of extra flour as you knead.)

If the dough seems very firm, add water 1 tablespoon at a time to make a soft and smooth dough. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour 1 tablespoon at a time.

Coat a work surface or countertop with cooking spray and turn dough out onto it. Cover with an inverted bowl and let rise for 15 minutes.

Lightly grease a baking sheet. Divide dough in half. Shape each half into a baguette 12 inches long. Place loaves on the baking sheet 4 inches apart and brush with oil. Let stand, covered with a towel, in a warm place until almost doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake loaves until golden, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool.

Nutrition information per slice:

Calories: 77; Fat: 2 g; Sodium: 130 mg

Carbohydrates: 13 g; Saturated fat: 1 g; Calcium: 18 mg

Protein 2 g; Cholesterol: 5 mg; Dietary fiber: 1 g

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 1 bread/starch.

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